8 Up the Blue Ridge (Hostel Around the Bend GA to Muskrat Creek NC)

Forestry fun

When I was with Sam, he pointed out some of the features of this Boeing 737. Ahem, this southeastern deciduous forest. For one, he emphasized that the lovely views through the bare tree branches (when not obscured by the frequent fog) are possible because the leaves are on the ground rather than hanging high. An obvious thought that made me feel more ambivalent about the eventuality of springtime. Sam also told me that (unlike a lot of western forests: ‘this is a lodgepole pine forest’ or ‘all of these are ponderosas,’) eastern forests have 200 or 300 species of trees populating them. Common species around here include oak and birch, but there are endless species within these categories. Sam also identifed the common underbrush: the mountain laurel (big green leaves) the holly (looks like Christmas), the rhododendron (should be the official plant of the South), and the briars (yuck).

Georgia’s existed for quite some time, but until the late 1800s, much of the mountain forests were virgin. Enormous chestnut trees emerged from a tall canopy of mature, highly spaced trees, I am told. Then, in the 140-90 years ago timeframe, a bunch of timber companies bought up the mountainous land in north Georgia and set to work clearcutting. They hauled away the towering chestnuts. They hauled off the rest of the canopy to power a national industrial acceleration and especially, to heat iron smelters. It’s amazing and sad how much virgin forest was logged not for wood products but for burning. Like the whole redwood forest!

Then the rain swept the exposed soil into the creeks, which carried it to the sea. For a time, the hills stood naked. 

The next phase occurred when the nascent National Forest Service bought up much of the timberland. More on that in tomorrow’s post. 

The rare majestic trees that were not cut preside over the rest of the forest. They shade their surroundings so thoroughly it’s as if they grow in the center of a clearing. They branch in complicated forms – I imagine their branch network expanded in width dramatically once the neighboring trees were removed and no competition for sunlight existed. When we had came upon one of these regal primary growth trees days ago, Hannah remarked “that tree is probably like, ‘I created all of you.’” Out of these individuals spawned an entire forest again. Much of the spawning work probably occurred underground. “Imagine the mycelial network that tree has,” Hannah enthused. 

How refreshing

To a hiker, there are many quite nice things about staying at a hostel. One is getting everything completely dry. This provides me an irrational sense of joy. Another is shipping excess items home. I found I had not used my towel, sunglasses (why did I bring two pairs?), collapsible water bottle, and a pair of socks. I more than made up for this lost weight in extra fun foods like a giant bag of kale and an avocado. I also brought a big bag of extra curry up to the top of a hill before deciding that was dumb and eating it all for lunch. Any tips on reasonable ways to eat produce on a hike without bringing too much weight? Bonus for avoiding packing out obnoxious waste items like avocado pits. After more trial and error, future self will no doubt know the right answer to this question.

This hostel was great and offered a free shuttle into the heavenly grocery store in Hiawassee (you should say Hiawassee out loud; it’s fun.) Also quite nice: showers and laundry. And the final quite nice thing for me was getting to see Hannah, Sam, and Magic Mama again. They were at the hostel having shuttled from Unicoi Gap. Everyone likes bonus hugs. 

Why so angry?

At first, my body rebeled against leaving civilization. Things that had hurt got worse. Things that had not hurt before started hurting. There was actual anger in my feet and peroneals. My pack was heavier than ever, and the hills grew. The hills literally grew. I crossed from Georgia into North Carolina (hooray for an arbitrary dopamine boost!) and one mile later, was at an elevation higher than any peak in the state of Georgia. The state line is an arbitrary straight line, but it does nicely separate the Blue Ridge here into a lower southern part and a higher northern part. If the state line were one mile north, the highest point in Georgia wouldn’t be Brasstown Bald but ‘this one hillside on the stateline whose summit is actually in North Carolina.’

Company was the remedy for the pain. I ran into Olivia on the trail, and once we started talking on the North Carolina climb, all pains ceased. It’s like the brain can only think about one thing at time. Either discomfort or engagement in a conversation. Olivia and I have a lot in common – recently graduating from college and living in San Diego, deciding research was not for us and pursuing an alternative path. 

We came upon an empty shelter – though not after Olivia and I occupied it. Perhaps fewer hikers will be on trail in North Carolina? I ate as much of the heavy foods I hauled up the hill as I could – especially that avocado.