11. Launching the bubble (Moore Creek to Wesser Bald NC)

Burn

On behalf of the West, I feel jealous of the East’s ability to do controlled burns. From what I was taught, this mostly results from private property owners, which own most of the East, burning more regularly than the Forest Service, which owns most of the West. However, I think the discrepancy in meteorological opportunity must account for more than I was taught. Controlled burns are best done in the winter preceding a storm. Snow or rain is free firefighting. The underbrush must also be clear of snow (or mostly so). How narrow a window in Western forests when the forest is not snow-buried but not bone-dry! I do not envy the job of the Forest Service.

Here in the Southern Nantahala National Forest, I find myself amidst a recent, beautiful controlled burn. By the smell, it’burned only a few weeks ago. The leaves, underbrush, and sticks are charred, but the trees survived. How healthy! This will mitigate the potential for destructive wildfires and recycle nutrients.

The Bubble

Based on registrations, today is the busiest day to begin the Appalachian Trail. Some 70 people were registered last I checked. This year, a record number of people, including myself, began before the traditional March window, though overall registrations were down from last year. The unseasonably mild late winter weather in the Southeast no doubt contributed greatly. Secondarily (for me at least), starting early stems from a desire for bubble-escape, a term I just made up that refers to getting ahead of the crowd.

March marks the height of popular AT northbound season – ‘The Bubble.’ The Bubble will spread out, but in Georgia, frustration and overcrowding seem inevitable. I care because, though I am ahead of the Bubble, all who hike during the same year share a bond.

Nowhere did the trail feel deserted in February. The camp areas, shelters, and the hostel I stayed at were generally full. Magic Mama could feed plenty of hungry hikers. For comparison, 31 people started the day I did. So the notion of competing with more than twice the traffic if starting today reaffirms my gladness to be bubble-escaping.

Balds and Tempests

I am at trail mile 131. As of yesterday, this became my longest backpack trip ever. As of today, today has been my hardest day yet. 21 miles and 5000′ of elevation, with no net elevation gain. The 5000′ down hurt a lot more than the 5000′ up.

The day consisted of scurrying over peak (bald) after peak (bald). Though the going was tough, I was incentivized to make it to lower elevation given a looming storm system rolling in overnight. The ominous clouds foretold of the coming storm.

Monday’s tempest brought huge winds. These blew over dozens of trees onto the trail, substantially impeding prices in some areas. That night, air oozed through cracks in the shelter, raising a cloud of dust that gently rained upon us.

Tonight‘s is expected to be a rain tempest bringing over 1 inch just overnight. I am unenvious of the bubble folks at the full shelters in Georgia, their first night on trail a drencher. I made it to Wesser Bald shelter (well after dark). Though I rehearsed my apology for the late arrival, no one was there.

Thus, today offers perfect conditions for a controlled burn. The (ominous) breeze carried fine particulates, accentuating the blue haze that always rests over these mountains. The scent was tangy and earthy, more pungent on the hilltops. Like in the fall, when farmers burn the cornstalks. The smoke told of burning leaves, not trees.