16. Rendezvous at the pinnacle (Russell Field to Mt Collins TN)

Catching up to Hannah and Sam 12 miles away did not happen in one day, so I exercised patience: how about two? It was an enjoyable chase. Knowing they were a moving target, I took encouragement arriving at places that they were at closer in time to when they left. Sam was texting me locations and timestamps. They left Derrrick’s Knob shelter at 10 AM. I arrived there at 12:15 for lunch. This closest-yet temporal overlap hardened my resolve to catch up within the day. Whenever they stopped hiking for the day, surely I could hike an extra two hours to arrive at the same location.

So in the evening light, I set up Clingmans Dome, the highest point on the AT and the highest point in Tennessee, to reach the shelter on the other side where Hannah and Sam would stay. As the trail climbed above 5500 feet high, the forest transitioned to a spruce and for forest, lush with moss, smelling of evergreen, resplendent in shade and tiny dappled patches of sunlight. What a way to spend an evening.

Climbing the castle

Singleminded in my effort to get to the shelter, I passed the tower on top. Something inside told me to turn around. I went back and climbed the tower. Solitairy in the evening light, above the spruce and having the red sun, stood Sam. King of the castle.

I quickly remembered why I had missed Hannah and Sam as we got back to nerdy conversation about climate change, accessibility in national parks, and the meabing of national parks. What a sunset atop the Smokies, atop the entire trail. How the miles fly by engaged in thoughtful conversation, the pale full moon casting fir tree shadows across the trail.

Long day

The Smokies are made for big days, I think Two summers ago, my friend Ian and I went on a backpacking trip in the Smokies, where we did 3 consecutive big days, gaining something like 20000 feet and hiking more than 70 miles. It was a huge trip. I hope Ian has gone backpacking since then.

Today’s hike, dawn to dusk, pressing onward while enjoying the setting, was in the spirit of of that ambitious trip with Ian. The big days here echo the big mountains. 6612 feet high, the physical pinnacle of the trip, the location I reunited with my friend Sam.

A free rider

Continuing yesterday‘s discussion of gifts and gratitude, there is a difference between being a free rider and a gift receiver, though sometimes it seems a fine line. Today, I found someone who falls into the free rider category. In my first impression of him, he was wearing my visor. He didn’t bring a stove, figuring others will have one he can use. he didn’t bring a phone charger, figuring others will have one. He didn’t bring nearly enough food, figuring others will share. So he clambers over the hills with a light pack, while others carry his weight. In a generous system, free riders always pose the risk of taking advantage. 

This is the fear many have with charity and generosity in general. That others will take advantage and become dependent on charity. This is why, in cases of charity, we should be an extraordinarily generous society, but focus charitable efforts on building others’ capacity and self-sufficiency, though not exclusively. In cases of generosity between equals, this is why there should be some expectation of reciprocity.

For this kid today, learning to take care of himself will be the foundation of a successful hike and of making friends, not enemies. No one likes a free rider. Then he will realize he has not scarcity but abundance. Perhaps the trail will be a tough but wise teacher. I hope so.

I decided not to share food in this instance. This kid has a reputation for taking advantage of others. It would not be very generous to the future people he encounters along the trail to feed him. We are nearing the town of Gatlinburg. My advice: go into town, get yourself a stove, get yourself enough food, and take good care of yourself. This is the flip side to generosity: the system still relies on people that can take care of themselves.

Was my response tough love or cruelty? It depends on your perspective, but I took this action out of compassion.

We can give gifts out of the abundance we have after taking care of ourselves. A good gift receiver carries an attitude of reciprocity, a desire to give back. This is the difference between a free rider and one who can graciously receive. You demand if you cannot rexiprocate; you receive if, maybe not in the moment but someday, you can reciprocate.